Day 22
I left Volger's Cove (Shorebirds B+B) after an excellent breakfast and lots of conversation with my hosts. They fed me so many blueberry pancakes that I had to refuse the last two. A side effect of these nice B+B host is that I didn't get off till nearly 10 AM. I'm at the Anchor's Post B+B in Bayside now, but I didn't get here till 8:30 PM last night and it will be another late morning. On the other hand, I'm learning lots about Nova Scotia and Newfoundland and meeting really neat people. Since that is main part of what touring is all about, I'm not complaining.
Yesterday was Canada Day, July 1, the equivalent of July 4th in the US. Traffic was bad near the beaches, and I spent most of the day near them. They were, beautiful and the weather, near the water, was very comfortable. Riding was especially nice before Lunenberg (about 30 miles including a neat cable ferry ride across the river at LaHave) where I had lunch; fish and chips and tea; I'm going native. After Mahone Bay traffic was so bad that it was almost like riding in the States. Except that, of course, most of the drivers were more polite!
View upriver from LaHave Ferry
I rode for a while with Bernard, a guy from Quebec whom I met at the great restaurant in Shelburn. He is credit card touring and has a riding style (he rides hard for 5 hours and covers 100 k or so each day) that is incompatible with mine, so we parted company after 10 miles. I also met a group of tourists from Australia. They are planning to do Cape Breton next week, so it is possible that I'll run into them again.
I stopped at about 5:30 near Head of St Margaret's Bay, and called the tourist info number (1-800-565-0000) to ask about B+Bs further on my route. This is a great service! I got a reservation at this B+B in Bayside thinking it was 25 miles on. It was really 35 miles or more, so I ended up riding till nearly sundown. Actually that was some of the best riding of the day. Low traffic and it was beautiful, especially riding through Peggy's Cove near sundown. Breathtakingly beautiful.
Peggy's Cove near sunset
I'm headed into Halifax this morning and, if I pass a book or computer store, I'm going to try to get an account package on Sympatico, an ISP that serves all of Canada. I'm using the Anchor's Post's Sympatico account to upload this ride report. I was, once again, very lucky in my choice of B+B.
It is about three or four days ride along the Costal Route to North Sydney, my next real destination. From there I plan to take the ferry to Newfoundland. After I come back from Nfld. I'll continue on around Cape Breton.
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