LIECHTENSTEIN 2-12 THE HAPPY HAVE-NOT AT LAST COUNT, THERE WERE 72 PRINCES 
AND PRINCESSES OF LIECHTENSTEIN, WHICH IS ELEVEN MORE HIGHNESSES THAN THERE 
ARE SQUARE MILES IN THE MINUSCULE PRINCIPALITY . LUCKILY FOR THE 
POSTAL SYSTEM, ONLY A DOZEN VON UND ZU LIECHTENSTEINS ACTUALLY LIVE 
IN LIECHTENSTEIN . INDEED, IT WAS NOT UNTIL 1937 THAT A 
HEREDITARY RULER ACTUALLY MADE HIS HOME IN THE DRAFTY, 13TH CENTURY 
FAMILY FORTRESS, WHOSE BATTLEMENTS RISE STARKLY ABOVE THE CAPITAL OF VADUZ 
(PRONOUNCED VAHDOOTZ) . THERE LAST WEEK, AMID EULOGIES AND THUNDEROUS RENDITIONS 
OF HEIL LIECHTENSTEIN, FRANZ JOSEF II MARIA ALOYS ALFRED KARL JOHANNES 
HEINRICH MICHAEL GEORG IGNATIUS BENEDIKTUS GERHARDUS MAJELLA, ITS TWELFTH REIGNING PRINCE, 
OBSERVED HIS 57TH BIRTHDAY AND THE 25TH ANNIVERSARY OF HIS ACCESSION 
TO THE THRONE . FOR FEAR OF OVERCROWDING ITS POCKET PARADISE, 
LIECHTENSTEIN (POP . 18,000) HAS GRANTED CITIZENSHIP TO ONLY A DOZEN 
FOREIGNERS SINCE 1950, AND WORRIES MIGHTILY OVER ITS RISING BIRTH RATE 
. AN UNSULLIED BLEND OF LUSH MEADOWLAND AND SOARING ALPINE PEAKS, 
THE NATION NESTLES SO UNOBTRUSIVELY BETWEEN AUSTRIA AND SWITZERLAND (SINCE 1924 
IT HAS SHARED CURRENCY, CUSTOMS SERVICES AND FOREIGN SERVICE WITH THE 
SWISS) THAT VACATIONERS DRIVING THROUGH ARE OFTEN UNAWARE THAT THEY ARE 
EVEN IN FRANZ JOSEF'S FIEF . THIS BOTHERS LIECHTENSTEIN'S GOVERNMENT NOT 
AT ALL, FOR, AS PRIME MINISTER ALEXANDER FRICK ONCE OBSERVED, THE 
SIGHT OF IDLE TOURISTS COULD PROVE UNSETTLING TO THE COUNTRY'S HARD-WORKING 
PEASANTS . SALAMI FOR RUBBERNECKS . EVEN TO SHUTTLE SUMMER TRAFFIC 
THROUGH THE COUNTRY, LIECHTENSTEIN GRUDGINGLY HAS TO DOUBLE ITS POLICE FORCE, 
WHICH CONSISTS NORMALLY OF 18 MEN AND A DOG NAMED REX 
. THE WELL-NAMED QUICK TOURIST OFFICE CONCENTRATES ITS ENERGIES ON SELLING 
VISITORS SWISS WATCHES, BELGIAN FRANCS AND LIECHTENSTEIN CUCKOO CLOCKS, WHICH ARE 
MADE IN WEST GERMANY . SINCE THE COUNTRY'S MEDIEVAL CASTLES BEAR 
SIGNS SAYING " NO CASTLE VISITING, " INSISTENT RUBBERNECKS USUALLY GET 
TO SEE THE SALAMI SKIN FACTORY OR ELSE ONE OF TWO 
PLANTS WHERE STRIKINGLY HEALTHY LIECHTENSTEINERS TURN OUT FALSE TEETH AND ARTIFICIAL 
LIMBS FOR WORLD MARKETS . THOUGH IT BOASTS ONE OF THE 
WORLD'S HIGHEST LIVING STANDARDS, GERMAN-SPEAKING LIECHTENSTEIN IS IN EVERY HAPPY SENSE 
A HAVE-NOT NATION : IT HAS NO UNEMPLOYMENT, SLUMS, COMMUNISTS, CRIME, 
TV OR RADIO STATION, AIRPORTS, DIVORCES OR BILLBOARDS . NEUTRAL IN 
BOTH WORLD WARS, IT HAS HAD NO SOLDIERS SINCE 1939, WHEN 
THE ONLY REMAINING WARRIOR DIED IN BED . ITS MAXIMUM INCOME 
TAX RATE IS 10 PER CENT ; CORPORATE TAXES ARE SO 
LIBERAL THAT MORE THAN 2,000 FOREIGN FIRMS HAVE REGISTERED HEADQUARTERS IN 
VADUZ . WHILE IT IS A CONSTITUTIONAL DEMOCRACY, LIECHTENSTEIN VIRTUALLY DISPENSES 
WITH POLITICS . THERE ARE TWO PARTIES, KNOWN AS THE REDS 
AND THE BLACKS, BUT THEY ARE EQUALLY CONSERVATIVE AND ANTI-COMMUNIST AND 
EVEN HAVE THE SAME MOTTO : FAITH IN GOD, PRINCE AND 
FATHERLAND . PRIVATE LEONARDO . LIECHTENSTEIN ALSO HAS CONSIDERABLE FAITH IN 
ITS WINE, A STURDY ROSE THAT THE GOVERNMENT REFUSES TO EXPORT 
FOR FEAR OF RUNNING DRY . AN EVEN MORE JEALOUSLY GUARDED 
NATIONAL TREASURE IS FRANZ JOSEF'S FAMILY ART COLLECTION (TIME, DEC . 
12, 1960), WHICH CONSISTS OF 1,500 PAINTINGS VALUED AT $150 MILLION 
. IT INCLUDES THE ONLY LEONARDO DA VINCI IN PRIVATE OWNERSHIP, 
A LUSH PORTRAIT OF A FLORENTINE MAIDEN CALLED THE GINEVRA DEI 
BENCI, AS WELL AS 27 RUBENS PAINTINGS THAT ARE VALUED AT 
$11 MILLION, AND PAINTINGS BY VAN DYCK, BRUEGHEL, REMBRANDT AND BOTTICELLI 
. THE PUBLIC IS ALLOWED TO SEE ONLY 75 OF FRANZ 
JOSEF'S LESSER PICTURES, WHICH ARE SANDWICHED INTO A MODEST BUILDING IN 
VADUZ ALONG WITH THE TOURIST OFFICE AND THE NATIONAL POSTAGE-STAMP MUSEUM 
. THE CLOSEST THE LIECHTENSTEIN FAMILY COMES TO SHARING ITS GREATEST 
PAINTINGS WITH THE WORLD IS ALLOWING THEM TO APPEAR OCCASIONALLY ON 
ONE OF THE NATION'S FAMED POSTAGE STAMPS . DESPITE POSTWAR LOSSES 
OF VAST HOLDINGS IN COMMUNIST CZECHOSLOVAKIA, FRANZ JOSEF II IS RANKED 
AMONG EUROPE'S TEN RICHEST MEN . A GRAND-NEPHEW OF AUSTRIAN ARCHDUKE 
FRANZ FERDINAND, WHOSE ASSASSINATION AT SARAJEVO IGNITED WORLD WAR I, THE 
ALERT, EASYGOING PRINCE IS ALSO RATED LIECHTENSTEIN'S MOST POPULAR MONARCH SINCE 
JOHANNES THE GOOD, WHO TOOK THE THRONE IN 1858, REIGNED 71 
YEARS, AND SPENT AN IMPRESSIVE $18 MILLION OF HIS PERSONAL FORTUNE 
TO BUILD SCHOOLS AND ROADS IN LIECHTENSTEIN . THOUGH NO ONE 
EXPECTED FRANZ JOSEPH TO SPEND AS MUCH, LOYAL LEICHTENSTEINERS WHO CROWDED 
INTO THE PALACE LAST WEEK PRAYED LUSTILY THAT THE PRINCE AND 
HIS BEAUTIFUL, 41-YEAR-OLD WIFE, PRINCESS GINA, MIGHT REIGN AS LONG AS 
JOHANNES . " WHEN THE PERSONALITY CULT GOES, " MURMURED ONE 
DEVOTED BYSTANDER, " LIECHTENSTEIN GOES TOO . " LONGER THAN ANY 
OTHER EUROPEAN MONARCH SAVE FRANCE'S LOUIS XIV, WHO BEAT HIM BY 
A YEAR . 